Thanks to Brett Hasbrouck, the General manager at Hayn Marine, and Robert Jones of Defender Marine, I received my replacement crown rings in the mail. Now it was time to get to work. Don Casey (This Old Boat) says a furler installation should take a professional rigger about six hours.
Rather than use a Bosun's chair, I rigged my ladder, as I did in this photo of the boat taken in 2005.
The first job was to make the new forestay from 7/32" 1x19 wire and the Hayn Hi-Mod swageless fittings. After bracing the mast the old stay was removed and stretched out between two screws driven into the deck.
An 'eye' fitting was attached to the top of the new wire, and a turnbuckle rod to the bottom, being very careful to get everything the same overall length as the original stay.
The Harken manual has a length calculation sheet that makes the whole process very easy.
To cut the wire I had thought about using my grinder with a cut-off wheel, but was reluctant to heat the wire ends, so instead cut the wire to length by taping it, wedging it in a board with a 7/32" groove, and sawing through with a fine tooth bi-metal hacksaw blade. The job was easy and left a perfect, smooth cut in the wire.
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I like the Hayn Hi-Mod fittings because they have slots in the crown ring, preventing wire strands from getting into the groove in the center cone. I had to fiddle a bit to get two strands in each slot, but knowing they were perfectly spaced was worth the effort. Probably after doing a half dozen of them it would be much easier. Ah, the joys of being an amateur :-)
Another plus of the Hi-Mods is that all the pieces are reusable if they should ever be taken apart.
The bottom of the forestay is all 3/8" pins, as I had previously made a new, beefed up, stem fitting with 3/8" holes. Now everything on the stay is matching in size and strength.
Here's a shot of the two toggles, side by side. The Schaefer is a standard eye-jaw toggle with a 3/8" pin. The Vega toggle, the upper one, when tapped with a screwdriver had a clear ring-tone like a fine wine glass ... good stuff!
Assembling the furler went pretty well, although I had some difficulty getting the sections together with the plastic wedges installed. Without the wedges they went together fine. The first two joints slid together with wedges OK, but the last joints were a bear. I'm not sure if the fact they were laying in the sun and had expanded made a difference, but I sure hope I never have to take them apart, as the supplied sealant was 3M5200!
After assembly I used the new jib halyard (a replacement for the old wire-rope halyard) to hoist up the top end of the rig, while the furling drum at the bottom slid along the dock on a life cushion.
Everything fit well, and after tightening the stays the furling line lead blocks were installed, a sail hoisted, and the furler 'dock' tested. Wow ... what a difference from the old unit. The exercise was well worth the effort !!
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